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DISCUSSION FORUMS : Forkliftaction.communicate
Forum: Technical arena
Discussion:  Linde T20 (walkie) will only move for approx. 3 seconds
Number of messages: 17
START MESSAGE:
purpose
Troms, Norway 		Does anyone know what may be the problem with this lifter?

Everything works OK, but the machine will only move forward and backward for approx. 3 second before it stops. Then the speed lever has to be released before another 3 seconds of moving can be done.

The batteries (24V) seems OK even when its running.

An electrical wiring diagram would be highly appreciated as the main cable from the LDC to the controllers has been replaced and I would like to check if anything has gone wrong during the replacement.

Posted 25 May 2009 10:46 AM Reply  Report this message
REPLIES: Sort replies by
fish
Denmark, Denmark 		What are the seriel number?
T20 can be many different models.

Posted 25 May 2009 04:59 PM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		It's a Linde T20, model L16AP and the serial is W4X360N02445.

Posted 25 May 2009 11:21 PM Reply  Report this message
michel_v
noord holland, Netherlands 		on behind side of the file engine goes for a ride grower sender sits checks these or he well fit

Modified 26 May 2009 04:42 AM
by poster. 		Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		Thanks for your reply michel v, but I'm really having a hard time interpreting your message.

If you mean the inductive 3-wired sensor attached to the motor's right side (Telemecanique XS7G12PA140), I've already checked this out, and its all OK (the internal LED on the sensor flashes to indicate that every revolution is performed correctly).

If this sensor is unplugged, the T20 responds in such way that it is impossible to gain max speed forward (or backwards).

Posted 26 May 2009 06:18 AM Reply  Report this message
michel_v
noord holland, Netherlands 		hef you laptop to read fault codes ???
sent me een mail i look vor book t20

Modified 27 May 2009 05:16 AM
by poster. 		Reply  Report this message
blackie
Gelderland, Netherlands 		Hello

Check the wiring or the switch of your tiller.

Cheers



-------------------------
prajfa@hotmail.com

Posted 27 May 2009 05:57 AM Reply  Report this message
edward_t
North Carolina, United States

 		set up the controllers to factory specs for ALL the settings..

-------------------------
webhome = forktechs.com

Posted 27 May 2009 07:54 AM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		All wirings are in perfectly good shape.

Also, I've checked every microswitch inside the handcontroller; up, down, forward, reverse, emergency stop and horn are all OK both pressed and released.

The emergencybutton does nothing though. Pressing it during the walkies 3 seconds of motion have no effect in any direction.

However, if it's pressed and kept that way before the ignition key is turned on, the lifter won't move forward or backwards at all.

I'm not sure how the emergencybutton are supposed to work. Only in reverse or?

There is a mechanical switch located at the tillers downmost position. This switch kicks in when the tiller is moved approx. 30° backwards.

There are NO wirings to this switch though and I believe that it has been bypassed as the switch seems rusty and half way broken.

I really need som electrical wiring diagram for this machine to make out how its intended to function.

Posted 27 May 2009 08:09 AM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		Hi, edward t.

How do one do that? This "ancient" machine from 2002 has little or nothing "options extra" beyond the buttons at the top of the tiller.

Are there any key pressing combinations on these that could "reset" this thing?

Posted 27 May 2009 08:27 AM Reply  Report this message
fish
Denmark, Denmark 		If you have another machine, you could try to change the tiller.
Maybe you have a defect potentiometer in the tiller.
You can measure the Ohm value for the pot.meter in plug 1x1 pin 19, 6 and 8.
Pin 19 to 6 2650 ohm in neutral.
Pin 19 to 8 2650 in neutral.
Full stroke the value have to be between 650 to 4650 ohm measured between  pin 19 to pin 6 or 8.

Posted 27 May 2009 07:06 PM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		Hi, fish and thank you for your reply!

I've done some readings on the pins you mentioned:

Under no circumstances, the readings will exceed 3370 Ohm (between pin 6 and 8).

In neutral, I got 2270 Ohm's between pin 19 and 6
In neutral, I got 2266 Ohm's between pin 19 and 8

Full trottle forward gives me 1.100 Ohm's between pin 19 and 8
Full trottle forward gives me 3.340 Ohm's between pin 19 and 6

Full trottle reverse gives me 3.370 Ohm's between pin 19 and 8
Full trottle reverse gives me 930 Ohm's between pin 19 and 6

I can see there is an approximate balance between the values, hence the motor should behave accordingly, -and it does!

Turning the direction-lever forward, first makes the forward contactor engage, then the machine starts creeping very slowly when the lever is turned a tad more. Full speed is achived if the lever is turned all its way. The same goes for reverse.

However: how CRITICAL is the neutral value (2650 Ohms for both 6 and 8) and does your manual state that this potmeter SHOULD be 4.7K?

If so, I can see that I have a potmeter-problem as mine only reads 3.4K without load...

I will have to disassemble the controller to gain access to the potmeter. I then will check to see if there is any markings telling me what value it should have.

Also: I've noticed that the potmeter is not fixed to its mounting screws, rather its a bit loose allowing it to move freely some degrees in both direction. It seems ment to be that way though.

Posted 28 May 2009 03:28 AM Reply  Report this message
fish
Denmark, Denmark 		Hi again
Yes the midpoint is very important, when you measure the voltage on pin 19 to 6 and 8  you need 4,5 V.(midpoint)
Because the supply voltage are about 9 V.
If the midpoint  isn't the half of the supply voltage the machine goes into fault mode, because the switch for the directions closes to late(the voltage are to high in this state).
The pot. are a 4,7 K ohm pot.

Posted 29 May 2009 01:23 AM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		CASE SOLVED!

Thanks to michel_v, who supplied me with some tehnical wiring diagrams, I was able to track down the fault to pin 22 on the 1x1 connector.

This line have to be grounded to make the machine work as it should. The line are supposed to be connected to the S4 switch (tiller lowermost foot switch which engages when tiller is pulled backwards), but as this switch is removed on my machine, the line from pin 22 ended up unconnected in the tillers controlpanel.

Jumping this to ground solved it all :-D

Thanks to all of you who replied to my "mystery".

PS: fish: I did check the potentiometer too. According to its make and type, it should be 4.1K. Although mine reads a lesser value, it functions perfectly linear as it should. Thanks for your help though.

Purpose

Posted 29 May 2009 04:16 AM Reply  Report this message
michel_v
noord holland, Netherlands 		good luck best regards michel
Posted 29 May 2009 05:41 AM Reply  Report this message
edward_t
North Carolina, United States

 		I think it is very rare that an electrical motive powered vehicle would have a "ground". or are you referring to the negative side of the circuit as "ground" and not the frame of the truck, in an automotive sense?

-------------------------
webhome = forktechs.com

Posted 29 May 2009 08:01 AM Reply  Report this message
purpose
Troms, Norway 		Hehe, yes I do edward_t. The negative side of the battery, not the frame...

Ground, earth, shield, common, minus, negative and so on...
Wonder what they call it on Mars...

Posted 29 May 2009 09:35 AM Reply  Report this message


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